Seven tips for making a community mosaic
For starters, let’s get one thing straight. When I say community mosaic, in fact I mean making any mosaic which involves more than one person. These tips especially apply if the team is not working at the same table for various reasons. For example, the mosaic might be too big for a single surface. Alternatively, different people are working on different parts of the mosaic at different times or locations.
Tip #1: Use the reverse method on paper
When making a community mosaic, the easiest method to use is the reverse method on paper. Watch my YouTube video about how to use this method. I also highly recommend Gary Drostle’s wonderful Introduction to Mosaic Artwork course on Domestika. Gary’s course takes you through all the stages of making a large scale mosaic on paper. Using paper means dividing the mosaic into sections to split the work is a simple process. This method entails using a water soluble flour-water paste glue. The glue allows corrections even a long time after the tesserae are laid – something which is handy if not everyone works to the same standard.
Tip #2: Don’t underestimate the prep
Thorough preparation is key. A remarkable amount of the work involved in making a group mosaic is done behind the scenes before your helpers sit down for their first session. Of course you need to design the mosaic and create the full sized cartoon. You must also choose the colours, order the tesserae, soak the tiles off the sheets and dry them out. In addition you need to make sure that the bags/tubs of tesserae are clearly marked using a system which is understandable to everyone. Shortened codes for the colours are noted on the cartoon so that everyone knows which colour to use when.
Tip #3: Take dividing lines into account at the design stage
The mosaic template is cut into sections and distributed to everyone who is helping make the mosaic. These sections should be easy to lift by one person once completed so that the paper isn’t under too much strain. I recommend that they are no larger than roughly 40cm square. This size works best at the installation stage too. When I say roughtly 40cm square, I mean very roughly. It is hard to be precise because the size and shape of the sections is dictated by the design. However, beware of long thin sections which will easily rip.
Tip #4: Consider the andamento
Ideally the sections are cut with (rather than against) the flow of the andmanento, which means the flow of the mosaic lines. Sometimes your design will include a single element with distinct andamento (like an animal). In such cases, cutting across the andamento is unavoidable. When that happens, I recommend cutting the mosaic into sections after the tesserae have been laid. This way, there is no chance of the lines not matching up when you join the paper sections together at installation stage.
It is also imperative to mark the direction of the andamento on the template so that everyone is singing to the same tune. Extra tip: any marks/notes for the team about the colours/andamento etc can be drawn in marker on the front of the paper. The pen will show through from the flip side – ie the side where the tesserae are glued.
Tip #5: Allow time for training
Don’t expect your volunteers or group to be able to leap into the task of making a community mosaic without giving them plenty of instruction. At least one dedicated training session before the project begins will make the project run more smoothly. Remember your team is likely to include mosaic newbies, so make sure everyone knows how to handle the tools and understands the basic concepts of mosaic construction. I would say that a minimum three-hour session in advance is essential.
Tip #6: Consider where and how you will stack and store
It’s vital to have a space to stack and store the completed sections prior to installation. If you are using a community space it is even more essential that you have a place where the sections will not be tampered with or accidentally damaged. Remember that the mosaic is made with water soluble glue so that any moisture that gets to it will loosen the tesserae and cause them to fall off. I use thin sheets of plywood to stack the sections but hard cardboard is fine too. If you are using plywood then the cost of the wood needs to be factored into the initial cost calculations. Alternatively, make sure that the sheets will be returned after use.
Tip #7: Supervise
Don’t assume that you can walk away and get on with something else. No matter how much effort you put into the project in advance, you still need to supervise and check over the work once it is completed. It is easy for people working in a group to be chatting and forget about your meticulously written out instructions. Of course, you can’t supervise if people are working in different locations. I recommend that that those who can’t be there in person are given sections which don’t require much precision. Bits which rely on successful andamento or particular colour combinations, should be done where you can keep an eye on the work.
For more tips and ideas about making community mosaics please watch my YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ifz28zzGWH4&t=9s